Monday 8

Took train to Varna – a grey and windy day. Met by my host Tanya, a Russian by birth studying philology. She was nice though seemed a little preoccupied with visa matters. I think she found my Australian accent a bit troublesome, less so her housemate Boyana (Bobby) who was a hoot. Seems it is my destiny to collect virtually unused phone cards from every country I visit when all I want to do is make one call. Was tickled pink to have a view of Black Sea from our window.

Tuesday 9

Paid a visit to the Archeological Museum, which featured artefacts from pre-Egyptian Thracian civilizations, including the oldest ornamental gold in the world. Poked around the city, before being kindly driven to the Golden Sands Resort out of town with Tanya and Martin, a friend of hers also on couchsurfing. The mini town was a near ghost town – the Russians and Scandinavians would arrive only in the summer. Replica Eiffell Tower. Tanya left for Sofia later that night to organize a visa to France – Bobby would now assume chaperone status! We watched Hair. Freezing cold, deliciously warm inside.

Wednesday 10

Went with Bobby (her 20th Birthday!) to her work at the Red Cross. Went out for some musaka and Bulgarian cuisine at a very popular canteen. Met up with Laura and day companion she’d picked up, Singaporean Wei, and walked a bit through the Primorski Park. Went to pool replica of the Black Sea. Then went to the most cheap, functional tavern which was full on atmosphere and good food (just had an omelette). Then went out with Bobby and her friends for drinks.

Thursday 11

Train ride with Laura to border town Ruse – the train was near empty train, got in some good sleep, plus also dried socks on the heater. From Ruse, caught a van to Bucharest with a driver like Xavier Bardem in No Country. Couldn’t be bothered asking for stamp from Romanian Customs. Took Laura to her hostel, then caught met to Crangasi to meet up with my couchsurfing host Mihail (Mitti). In his apartment, had massive mattress to myself in a big bare room with window. Had tasty dinner with Mitti, his friend Elena, and a couple and their children brought along. Had a deep philosophical disscussion on the nature of self and perception which probably dragged on too long.

Friday 12

Met Laura at Piata Unrili – very drab but with a bit of polish in summer the environs might look Parisian. We visted Palace of Parliament – second biggest administrative building after the Pentagon, along with scores of other statistics learnt from the guide. So much marble, such little need for a building of such size. Yet beautiful. Permit to take photos cost 15AUD, twice more than admission ticket. Next visited the historic quarter to the east, the old Curtea Palace or whatever of the kingdom of Wallachia (of Vlad Impaler fame). Actually saw a gypsies drop a fake baby and hope nobody saw. Went out for drinks with Mitti, Elena and Laura and smoke too much shisha.

Saturday 13

Early morning train to Brasov – very cold again. Scores of druggie chromers at the station – again asked verbatim in good English, “Excuse me can I have 20 lei for my train ticket?” Snow en route via Sinaia. Beautiful. Gypsie children singing in train for dough.

Managed to find out way to the Rolling Stone hotel. A bad night – three drunk and funny Melbournians and two loud American Girls would keep me up most of the night. Laughed at Laura’s quip about the hotel’s receptionist having Dracula teeth.

Two observations about the Balkans: employees sweep/dust everywhere around their immediate workplace. Pride in their workplace thoroughfares, but as private citizens litter, spit etc. Also, people bump into you even when there’s ample room.

Sunday 14

Caught the morning bus out to my host’s place – a lovely couple. Caught van out to Sinaia for the snow! It was spectacular – last time I saw snow was that fake stuff up at Lake Mountain when I was ten or so. Rolled snowballs. Took a steaming piss. Went to the Monastery. Driven up the hill to the Pelisor Palace - an art-nouveau summer residence decorated by Crown Princess-then-Queen Maria of Romania during 1900-1930s – by a boomerang selling tout. Some very nice features inside. Walked around the Peles Palace but decided not to go in – didn’t want a so-so interior to wreck its awe-inspiring outside appearance. Some wit had built a snow ‘penis’. Captivating watching snow thudding of the slate roof. Snow was so crunchy. Was supposed to meet up with Laura, but never found her.

Similia and her husband, my host, drove Laura and I all around town, showing us the sights, before cooking us dinner back home. More about their generosity later

Readers note: Romanian photos appear on next page on LiveJournal Scrapbook.,

Total spent twentieth-third/fourth

     Transport  -  71

      Food   -  45      

                             Acc    -  20

      Misc   -  33

                            Alcohol  -  2

                                   Leva / Lei ($171 AUD)

Percentage of Holiday Savings spent these weeks  – 0.85%     

Total spent                                                -  60.25%