BRISBANE
 
Thursday 27 October 2011

Finished work at 1.00pm and caught SkyBus to Tullamarine. My first time flying Tiger. A terminal I was unfamiliar with, on the city-side of the complex. A nice sunny day in Melbourne - hoped things would be as agreeable up north. Fell asleep for almost the entire flight. Arrived ‘Pig City’ at 6.30pm. Warm but overcast as I exited the airport and nursed a quick fag. Grabbed the Airtrain through to Roma Station (25 minutes) and promptly bought a GoCard with $30.00 credit.  Roma Station old but charming, remembering the old underpass at Spencer Street Station?
 
Walked down to the Brisbane River. A beautiful vista of Southbank and its resplendent Ferris Wheel (that actually works!). Gave Mum a quick call. Dad and her gallivanting around the Hunter Valley in some rail tour. Up to Queen Street to have a gander at the ornate Casino. Appropriately (or maybe offensively) housed in the former Treasury Building.  Pretty busy down the mall. Strictly non-smoking. Bought a 50c cone at Hungry Jacks and tried to compare this with Rundle Street.
 
Satisfied with my precursory examination of the CBD’s main points, walked back up to Roma Street Station and caught the train to Toowong Station. My CouchSurfing host Vanessa lived just a short distance away. The Village Shopping centre houses a public library! Alighting from the train my already fine mood was lifted by the sight of a Sizzler Family Restaurant.  Vanessa works in hospitality and met me cheerfully by the Coffee Club. She was also hosting a 21-year old from Germany. Dark by now. Greek Salad and potatoes for dinner on the patio courtesy our Teutonic friend. Nice view of Mount Cootha and its TV antennas.
 
Vanessa’s friend came over with her son, who talked to us (read: mostly me) about his Pokemon cards.  I thought that went with Tamagotchis.
 
Friday 28 October 2011

Work early, the only one up. Got coffee and walked up to the Water Cat terminal just outside the historic Regatta Hotel. The establishment’s lower floor was closed for flood renovations but I later discovered it had been pencilled in for renovations in 2012 anyway! Slightly overcast but warm. Water Cat travelled faster than I expected – had to keep my baseball cap on tight. Alighted North Quay terminal and walked down George Street to the Botanic Gardens. Nice birds walking around the copses (? I’m no botanist!) of the Gardens. Enjoyed walking by the mangroves down by the river with little boardwalks meandering through. The mangroves only appeared there as a consequence of the 1974 flood apparently. Walked up back through Queensland University of Technology. Its logo looked a lot like the QUIT (Smoking) logo!
 
Took a tour of Parliamentary House. Only myself and an octogenarian Adelaide couple. Gentlemen ended up comparing everything (favourably) to the Sydney Town Hall. He was an ex-army man, now turned Sprinkler Marketer. Very ornate Library.  Sat in Anna Bligh’s chair (got a photo, Mum!).  Walked across Victoria Bridge to South Bank.
 
Last time I was here was in 1988 for Expo. Very sketchy memories about pressing a red Emergency Button somewhere or other in the complex (me thinking it was just another selector button). Stoped at the manmade beach and contemplated a dip. Erred on the side of conservatism – wasn’t quite hot enough. A film crew were on the sand to film a little ‘It’s hard to believe that just nine months ago where we’re standing was flooded’ piece. Saw some lizards in the garden.  Walked up Vulture Street (saw a few old houses on stilts!) and then down Edmondstone Street to the Greek Club where I supped on some spanikopita while looking over Musgrave Park.
 
Walked along Boundary Street into West End proper to see what all the fuss was about (the ‘End supposed to be the new Fortitude Valley et al). At the Boundary Hotel had two pints of XXXX with one Paul who expressed some begrudging admiration for Sir Joh. In his estimation he was the last of the ‘real’ political leaders who, whatever his faults, managed to appeal to the average citizenry as well as the establishment.
 
As I came to the end of Boundary Street and decided to end my exploration of the suburb happened upon Anna Bligh’s Electoral Office. Waited patiently for front-staff to attend to some constituency matters on the phone. Scored a ‘Save Straddie (Stradbroke Island) – Vote Labor!” sticker. Attendant obviously a music buff. Confirmed for me the location of Regurgitator’s maiden gig in 1994. Without prompting they even knew the headliners were in fact Pangaea. Decided to walk over The Go-Between bridge back into the city. By this time, absolutely busting. Kind ex-Melbournite working at the Gas and Oil building took me down into the basement (oh hello) to let me use the card-access toilet without even knowing me from Adam. Ring on wedding finger, alas.
 
Refreshed but unable to walk down the pedestrianized part of Coronation Drive (or simply being inept enough to discern it), I walked up Milton Road to grab a snap of the XXXX brewery. Next part of my self-designed pop culture tour was to get to Petrie Terrace (suburb and street), home to a few early Saints house gigs. Had a beer at the Normanby Hotel. Walked the two kilometres or so to Kelvin Grove State High School. Quan from Regurgitator went to school. Kids at bus stop had never so much as heard of the band in question. Nothing weirder than a moustache=wearing man taking a photo of a boy’s school so took a few photos hurriedly.
 
Sick of walking. Caught a bus to Roma Parklands. Love using this Go-Card - maybe I will take the Myki plunge back in Melbourne. Walked up the steep steps to the park.   Nice amphitheatre. Was this where Regurgitator played? An equally funny gig might be imagined on the roof of the toilet block at the top end. Sun now out. Walked down at a leisurely place to King George Square where I had agreed to meet CouchSurfer Christine. She was doing her thesis on photographic representation in “liquid modern times”. I loved repeating liquid modern times. Easily chatted about all and sundry. Had a coffee at Queen Street Mall while people watching. Saw her off on her bus and then caught train from Brisbane Central.
 
Vanessa had planned a dinner out in the West End but fell through. Instead had some beers, talked on the balcony for an hour, then watched a few episodes of The Inbetweeners. Never had a couch felt so comfortable!
 
Saturday 29 October 2011

Woke up early and caught train into Fortitude Valley. Had a coffee at the "Fatboys Cafe" or the Royal George Hotel - not sure where they begin and end ! The market on Brunswick Street but, as per usual, mostly crafty apparel and dress for women ultimately. Sought the ‘Dirty Room in the Valley recording studios’ but perhaps its defunct. Sun out - gratefully I had slipped, slopped and slapped! Walked the three or so kilometres down into New Farm.

Jacaranda Trees were nice in New Farm Park. It reminding me of The Wizard of Oz - all the fallen purple leaves combined with the heat had a light narcotic, slumbering effect on me. On the Humbug Reach-side, the river was constantly lapping at pedestrian level in parts. A few pumps in the vicinity to remedy this.  Ambled over to The Powerhouse entertainment centre. Saw a young rock band playing outside. In between each number, musicians pulled out their iPhones. Oh rock and roll! Nice set up inside. Walked up Lamington Drive and James Street in a north easterly direction. Lot of six-story or so flats with each balcony seemingly possessed of a monster BBQs. Mini Florida? Back in the Valley discovered The Zoo was not an actual working pub but a nights-only music institution. Walked over Story Bridge to Kangaroo Point. Looked down at the Story Bridge Hotel. Apparently they race cockroaches there on Australia Day! Clear skies now.

It was really nice walking along Kangaroo Point to South Bank. Abseilers out on the cliffs. Some more mangroves with little crabs scurrying under the boardwalks. Called Tim Keong back in Melbourne to organize some Melbourne music recording in absentia. Free Nestea by Riverside Expressway. Walked over Victoria Bridge and just walked around town, grabbing $2 American Pizza slice. At Eagle Street Pier supped a take-away coffee. Caught ferry back to Regatta then swam in apartment pool whilst Vanessa got dressed. Bought six pack of XXXX by the Royal Exchange Hotel.
Vanessa and I caught taxi to the West End, picking up Lisa and friend, Tom (dressed as Libra-Man). On to a Halloween house part in Woolangabba/East Brisbane. A blues-based rock combo with revolving players was set up on the back patio.  On my suggestion guitarist played a few bars of “Good Times Roll” by Jimi Hendrix Experience before proclaiming ‘fuck that shit’ and then going into some Rage Against The Machine. Chain drinked the XXXX and started on wine.  Next assortment of the band attempted some Grinspoon. Got into it. Young girl with some sort of lightshade/bell-shaped skirt complimented me on my moustache and we started talking. Studying Urban Culture or some such. Her friend came over and I lost my nerve.

Went inside and started talking to Amy Winehouse. I later discovered she supposed to be just a generic cha-cha dancer. Talked off and on to a German and Swede girl respectively and later confused them. Funny Aussie guy in dress. Pulled out camera and got some drunken snaps (oh no, I’m one of those people!). Paranoid French CouchSurfer made me delete one of two that contained photos of his wife – whoever she was. Now bold enough to make something with the bell-shaped-dress girl but nowhere to be seen. Found her friend who insisted on taking me to find her but was being led up the garden path.  Found Vanessa and we taxied to West End for a quick pizza slice before getting into another taxi bound for the valley. An hour or so drinking time until lockdown. Met up with Vanessa’s good friend James, a cook, who filled us all with smiles. A little mid night paella and then into a pub. Choc-a-block of people…and divvy vans it seems. Taxied back home at 2.30am.
 
Sunday 30 October 2011
Woke up hungover to a warm, stuffy room. Rushed out to grab a crossiant and coffee. Returned home, Vanessa still asleep, so watched a few more episodes of The Inbetweeners. Bid farewell to my lovely host. Trained out of Toowong to Oxley. Sun now firmly out. My host Steve was an ex-copper now working for Information Management in the Queensland Government.  Steve was the first CouchSurfing Ambassador I’d stayed with. His place was a lovely old house, partially on stilts. Spent a good hour talking about Queensland’s recent history. Kindly drove us both to Mt Cootha in the mid-afternoon. Kuta Bali eat your heart out! Great view of the city.  Fairly busy with visitors.
 
Both of us caught the train to Toowong and then caught the ferry to the Powerhouse in New Farm (my suggestion).  Smart phone updates about impending turn of the weather.  Caught the last two acts – very packed. By chance met up with another CouchSurfer and his two guests. After performance spoke to Russian CouchSurfer (chemical engineer for shell) for a good hour. Ferried back to Regatta, pontoon pumping and spraying, it pelted down for a good 30 minutes before we were game enough to head out to the station. Fell asleep as soon as head touched the pillow in my bunk-bed room.
 
Monday 31 October 2011

Woke up and showered, Steve having already left for work. Walking up to the shops for a coffee I had a quick browse through the Op Shop. A few Kingston Trio albums in good nick, but couldn’t be bothered carting them around.  Caught the train up to Bowen Hills and walked the two kilometres or so through Newstead to the Breakfast Creek Hotel. A Brisbane institution famous for its steaks and Spanish Garden - but known best to me through Midnight Oil’s “Dreamworld”. Off The Wood.
 
Only 11.00 am but the hotel filled up quite quickly with tourists and locals. Some good pin-ups and mini-exhibits throughout the house’s annexes and corridors. Was a barfly in the Private Bar for a good two hours - saw the wooden barrel be tapped and sampled the amble fluid. Got well sozzled drunk. Scoffed down sushi on the way back to Bowen Hills.  Got out at Central and walked to Queen Street.

Hazy next few hours. Trent gave us a call as the mini-hangover kicked it in the mall. Met Steve at South Bank for some Indonesian food. Christine dropped by as well as another CouchSurfer, Motti (Indonesian). Good food, great conversation. Water Taxi to Regatta and then outward train to Ipswich. Steve pissed off. No information on the platform.
 
Tuesday 1 November 2011

Woke up with a cold. Arrived at the airport 10 minutes after checkout (my fault).  Tiger’s Check In Desk had closed. Went through screening hopeful and praying. The plane was still loading but nothing-doing: they’d overbooked given the Qantas grounding and my seat had gone! Next available flight the following day at 6.00pm. Starting to shit bricks. JetStar quoted same. Finally managed to score a $180 ticket leaving at 3.00pm with Virgin. Lucky but pissed at myself. Hung around a bit. Read my Christopher Lee autobiography. Caught a bus to the local DFO (shudder) at the Airport Village using courtesy shutter. Had lunch, beer, and tanned outside. Slept for a lot of flight. Skybus back to the CBD and tram home – all with a growing sore throat. Who won the cup? I loved Brisbane. Never got to Spring Hill (Go-Betweens), the lovely sounding St. Lucia or the original settlement at Redcliffe. Next time, Gadget. Next Time.
 

TUESDAY 2 AUGUST (AUCKLAND night)

Sorry Census Australia. Left work at noon, Mum and Dad having kindly offered to drive me to the airport (they’d done so for Laura on her last trip.) Air New Zealand NZ726 at 6.30pm was extremely painless. Watched a few episodes of The Office both old and new. Decided to write ‘misc.’ under occupation on my arrival Immigration Card. The customs guy queried it but then let me with the card unaltered. Bought 2Degrees SIM Card and set up mobile. Called home to advise landed safely. Hung around the airport for about an hour watching people come in, acclimatizing myself to the accent. Somewhat dreading how I’d fill the next eight dark hours before I could meet my first CouchSurfing host. Sign outside Airport says “HP supports government”, and not “HP supports New Zealand.” Maori sign: ‘every river another great chief.’ When I stood as much loitering at the airport as I could, I got on the shuttle bus and made my way into town.

Went past Bunnings, Kennards Self-Storage and even Ray White for goodness sake! Driver stopped off en route to buy a pasty at the local Dairy. In return he deviated us to the Casino. Handed in grey bag to camp Maori guy and considered a flutter. No. Had an open burger, wandered around pretending I was a professional, and chugged a few cigarettes. Rugby all over the TVs. Splitting headache but panadols in convenient stores/superettes all $11.00 and over. Decided just to chug water. Quite a lot of fruit flies tonight for some reason?

Over on Victoria Street, I spoke to Internet Café proprietor for a good 45 minutes about all and sundry (he a Jordanian). Auckland dead on every weeknight past 8.00pm he said. He kindly took a photo of me in front of the Casino Tower. Walked up and down the city. Apparently they were filming a beer commercial featuring reindeer in the city but didn’t see any of the creatures myself. Down to the Queen’s Wharf thinking I might see a memorial or directions to Rainbow Warrier sinking site – no such luck. Seemed to be jumping fish in the harbour. Spent next four hours talking to the bartender at Shakespeare Hotel before it was time to find my CouchSurfers home at Fisherman’s Bay. A short walk out of town, Ian lived with three others above a panel beaters of College Hill. I’d hosted Nate in Heidelberg – he was originally to host me, but his situation changed and he had to handball me onto his mate. Nice set up. I’d have a mattress in upstairs attic which was a little cold, but had good blankets.

WEDNESDAY 3 AUGUST (AUCKLAND night)

Arrived Ian’s at 8.00am. He quickly showed me the amenities and left for work. Got four hours sleep, showered and began my travels at 12.30pm. Surprisingly refreshed. Quick visit into New World Supermarket for a banana (a comfortable $4.40 a kilogram here). Made my way up to Ponsonby suburb (just up the hill, and apparently full of ‘ponces’). A few little consecutive stripshops along the main road and some nice houses, all with the Sky Tower on the horizon (would it ever escape me?) and undoubtedly some fine real estate, but nothing too interesting. Turned left at the road’s terminus onto Karangahape Rd (‘K Road’ everyone calls it). A little gritty and some inexpensive restaurants. Some good-looking cross-dressers as I sat down to sup on a flat white. Guys on the next table were planning the ‘positioning’ of their café and its brand. I did a little eavesdropping. They seemed to be making sense. ‘It’s all about being specific. Instruct our staff no dead ends – you can’t go anywhere with ‘would you like any coffee or deserts’ if they decline. Say, ‘Well, we’ve just got in this new Sudanese Java etc.’ Nice sunny day.

Turned left onto Queens Road by a nineteenth century Westpac (Bank of New South Wales emblazoned on the white plaster) to begin my descent into the city. Lot of Asian stores and amenities around. Took a seat at the Domain Thing. Australian outlet stores everywhere. Deride American corporate penetration back home but New Zealand well and truly tethered to Australian commerce. Paid a visit to JB Hi-Fi to see what Australian films made the cut. Mostly everything here, including many Madman titles. No ‘Sleeping Dogs’ or other pre-Peter Jackson Kiwi classics but. Changed some money favourably with no commission then bought ticket for ferry to Devonport.

Nice views of the harbour on the way, but fairly windy. German couple on the ferry. Managed to resist temptation to engage the language which is increasingly rare for me. Wandered around the nice little town but declined to walk up to volcanic hill. Bought fish and chips but no vinegar to be had. Returned to Auckland and spent a fruitless 40 minutes walking around trying to locate Rainbow Warrier sinking site to pay my respects. Given contradictory spurious advice on where to seek it out. Led to the new Fish Market precinct. Finally advised resolutely by tourist staff that it was back Queens Wharf way. I think I interrupted him necking a girl in his little booth – sorry. Too late to go back, due back at Ian’s. Cut back through Victoria Park. Peeled some potatoes and Ian’s ‘better half’ made a fine pie. Chattered animatedly about Internet/Christchurch Quake Levy and more into the night.

THURSDAY 4 AUGUST– (HAMILTON night)

Up at 7.00am for an 8.00am departure. Ian kindly offered to drive me to Thrify to pick up my rental Hyundai on Kyber Pass Road. Not having driven a car for the past six months I was worried that I’d be a little stiff. Fortunately, the rental site was right by the motorway south out of town. Car was Hyundai rego FSJ969. I put the radio on and first thing out of the speakers was a news piece about a thwarted extortion bombing in Sydney. Flick channels to their equivalent of Radio National or News Radio. Good stuff. Lot of people speeding on Highway 20. Stopped by a closed Red Lion Hotel outside Maramarua to take a photo and have a fag. I’d soon get used to green lushness. Arrived Thames, old gold-mining town. Nice enough. Tony Martin had lived here at one point. Expresso then to curio store where bought Blur’s The Great Escape for something to listen to. Subsequently, I was to listen to it non-stop on repeat for the next three days.

Nice undulating landscapes through to Paeroa. There was a hill with WW1 memorial looking down on the town. Next on to Cambridge. Described as a green, garbled, old-fashioned village. Not really. Village green, for sure, but fairly plain. I sat down for gelati and witnessed a motorcycle cavalcade with bear-breasted lasses going and up and down the main drag. And my camera was in car! Headed west to Hamilton as the sun was setting. Traffic madness in the city. My first university town and fairly nondescript. Drove over the Victoria Bridge and a few of the other ones. Picnicked on a sandwich by the Waikato River.

Waited for my next host, Saifon, to arrive home at Hillcrest, a suburb down the hill from the university. Saif is a Thai student doing her marketing masters. Her Dad is an independent member in the Thai Parliament, but I mistook him for the king on the fridge! She made us some excellent Thai food. After chatting about all and sundry, I drove us into town to grab a coffee. We walked around waiting for her sister to finish her shift at the local restaurant. Lonestar Grill Chain here too. Kiwi tooth-pick flags in the urinal – did my best to avoid. Drove back and to sleep.

FRIDAY 5 AUGUST– (ROTORUA night)

Woke up to a foggy day, but it soon cleared up. Saifon had a trip to the dentist so I hung around watching a Good Morning NZ waiting for her to return. The programme featured the same camp Hollywood correspondent, Nelson, as on Kochie and Mel. With Saifon back we drove on to Hamilton Gardens for a poke around. On to Te Awamutu next: birth place of Tim and Neil Finn. Local museum had a mini-Museum on all things Enz. Tim had donated his APRA award for WOODFACE (album) to the museum where “history never repeats!”

I used their map for a short walk to the Funn’s home and other spots on Teasdale Street. About 1pm left south for Te Kuiti the purported ‘sheep capital of the world’. The Shearing Statute was certainly no Big Banana. Tony Martin lived in this part of the King Country in his youth so looked in vain for ironic signage or something to photograph. Nothing. Spoke to octogenarian rambled, came out he was a ‘confirmed bachelor’ but I didn’t press. We invariably talked about positive discrimination for Maori. He liked the queen but supported a republic.

Took the Highway 30 towards Lake Taupo. Some nice scenery and my first experience of some twisty roads. Nice to see the railway line skirting the bottom of some small green ranges with the river below. Some abandoned wooden farm houses in the small vales. Coming through the small forest park I became worried I’d run out of petrol. I finally pulled into Caltex at Lake Taupo just as low-petrol beep came on. Went down to the lake but light was fading so deciding to head straight for Huka Falls, just out of town.

Impressive falls? Yes. The energy. The horror. Heading back onto the highway greeted with road sign ‘merge like a zipper.’ Really do have a more ready sense of humour here. Continued on to Rotorua as things got markedly darker. Hit ‘Motel Mile’ and made way to Hinemaru Street right by Government Gardens. I was staying with Susanne CS – an expat Kiwi with quite a bit of life experienced that was a decade back in Rotorua. Upon securing a spot in one of the only two no-limit parking bays, I walked up to her first floor apartment. Arrived later than I should have. The door was open and post-it notes welcomed. The deliciously warm abode the result of geo-thermal heating. Entreated Susanne out to Turkish for dinner. Nice chat about the state of New Zealand. Back to her apartment, gathered my towel and headed the short distance through the gardens to the Polynesian Spas. Lot of Asians. Never been in a thermal bath before (check?). It was well-worth it degrees of 38-45 degrees. I spent three hours until closing time soaking and talking to a Kiwi-Danish couple about things. Back home and slept like a baby.

SATURDAY 6 AUGUST – (NAPIER night)

Susanne having left when I woke up, I walked through town to Kuirau Park in the west end of the city. Nice to alternate between the grey bubbling ponds, the dry hot air vents, the smoky swamps and the more coolish (looking) waters. I walked to the eponymous lake via some northern streets. Enjoyed festering thermal waters and vapours coming up through cracks in the concrete. The maori pa was closed but sought a little solace in the no doubt famous church.

Pondered a trip out to the Buried Village of Te Wairoa but was happy just to traipse around town. Back to Susanne’s to gather belongings. On the balcony, discovered she may have grown up with one or other of the Hamlets in Fairlea Street, Lindon or some such? Drove south on to Murupara. Lots of roadkill in NZ. Murupara looked a bit like a dole town –drab and grey. Ate some fish and chips in the car. Bit of logging around. Drove east through the Te Urewere National Park. Road got very gravely and winding – down to 20kms an hour for a good 45 minutes. A herd of mountain cows blocked my way. The bull leader of the pack looked at my intently, waiting to see how I would negotiate my passage. Shitscared, he would have made mince meet of the Hyundai. Made sure not to look him in the eyes and proceeded carefully. After another twenty kilometres or so the road levied out into a few hundred acres of flats, leading me to the Maori community of Ruatahuna.

One petrol station town. Discovered the road out the other side was blocked due to a landslide. Ah shit! There had been one just hours before on the road I’d already passed. Apparently the council responsible for that road was a lot more active! Double-backing would cost me at least three hours and I was travelling late already. Took a seat in front of the cabin motel rooms with my cup of tea mulling things over. A group of three kids under ten-years ambled up with a ‘hey mister.’ The main kid walked with a stick of toilet paper around the end of it like he was about to tramping into a cave. One looked like a Maori version of kid from BAD SANTA. Another kid looked like the kid from the NZ film BOY, but with an Afro. A funny conversation proceeding along the lines below:

BOY: “So, do you like being white?”
ME: “It’s pretty good. We’ve done a lot of bad things though. Killed people”
BOY: “You saying you’re killed people, mister?”
ME: “No.”
BOY: “You got a wife?”
ME: “No.”
BOY: “You should try someone in there. (smiles) She’s only 16 though.”
ME: (a la Top Gun wingman sketch) “No, you should.
BOY: (chuckles)
ME: “What?”
BOY: “No, we’re related.”

The girl came out after fifteen minutes or something and said the road had been cleared. Good thing I’d waited. On the road to Lake Waikaremoana came across the removal trucks just finishing removing the fallen boulders. Glad to see me and me then. One said their daughter lived in Melbourne and went for Collingwood. No comment. There was a stretch of 100 metres that was just dirt on a precipice with small stones demarcating the ledge. Gotta buy brown underwear in future. Things levelled out after the lake and got to see my first mountain goats (chamois). Shame they are an introduced, ecological destructive species. It was dark by the time I got to Waiora and the highway (very dark) to Napier. More cows blocking Highway 2. I met my CouchSurfing host Lua, an Irish teacher. He kindly took me out to an home feast at his colleagues house. They were watching the All Blacks/Oz game and probably expected more commentary from me. Or even one comment. Nice bunch of people. Got talking to one middle-age women (psychology lecturer) who was a little flirty and helped me refresh me on my Jung. Lua drove us back to his home on the hill. Great view on the back veranda of the reclaimed land unearthed by the ocean’s retreat after the earthquake of 1931. All this ‘tense’ driving (for me) resulted in prompt and deep sleeping.

SUNDAY 7 AUGUST – (WELLINGTON night)

I woke up early and bid farewell to Lua. I parked by the art deco theatre and walked around town. I do love art deco but for some reason it always reminds me of pre-WW2 fascism. Well, Joh Bjelke-Petersen born here. Ate a delicious bruschetta. The sound shell was nice. Would have been even more spectacular if the shell ‘arches’ were hanging concrete rather than wood. My camera fell over onto gravel after I’d set it on time delay and copped a few scratches. Can imagine it would have a nice English seaside resort feel come summer time.

I stopped by a market and picked up a Hank Snow LP (which I ended up leaving behind on the plane back). Talked to stall owners of a ‘British Import Food’ float. I’d seen quite more than a few of these in New Zealand. Was it meant to cater desires of returned Kiwis from Britain, or settlers her from the ‘Old Country.’ Mixture of both it seems. Would surely seem a bit sycophantic Australia-side. It was a flat drive on spit-like land to Hastings. Light and quick showers with sun still resolute.

Drove onto Palmerston North (homeplace of John Clarke) to look at the clock tower. Not too much going on so decided to go through the Shopping Centre. A clothing chain called ‘Farmers’. After Dannevirke came across a picturesque railway. Workers on other side of gorge attending to works on tracks. Pulled over to take a few snaps for Dad and got talking to the supervising emergency man. Gave him a menthol, grateful for the deviation. Said it was ludicrous the country couldn’t even muster a dedicated Wellington-Auckland railway passage. A bit more serious rain again as I past through the lower Tararua Forest Park. Cleaned car up in anticipation of handing over car.

Rained as I pulled into Wellington. Surrendered car on Wakefield Street no problems. Quite windy so put my ‘Croatian’ hoodie on. Glass shelters by intersections, presumably for times of great wind gusts. Met Urszula and her flatmates at Irish Pub on Cuba Street just past bucket sculpture. Probably ought to lower the water pressure. Caught Cable Car up to last stop, the Botanic Gardens, their warm colonial flat just a hundred meters away from the terminus. Great view of the city and its picturesque natural harbour. Lush green hillsides all around (we must be on one equally similar). French David made us great dinner. Watched a bit of David Attenborough’s Planets before slumbers. Divine people, none from NZ.

MONDAY 8 – (WELLINGTON – Night)

I walked down into the city with Urzsula on her way to work. Steep ramp across highway. Urzsula went left while I sat looking at the Beehive (government buildings) and parliament itself. Bus stop signs imploring Kiwi workers to stay put (big map of Australia). From the Railway Station walked down the Golden Mile to Courtney Place. A Borders still open. Grabbed a cup of tea.

Looked around Te Aro in the southern part of the CBD. Good to see independent theatre alive. The Embassy, Paramount, and The Empire. Walked up and down the water front while waiting for Te Papa (museum) to open. Spent a good four hours through the exhibits. Flora/fauna, earthquake faultlines, Maori and pakeha exhibitions. Funny to hear about the unfortunate Australian acclimatization societies inanely introducing wallabies and other nasties. Walked back to Cuba Street looking for Redmond’s record store – couldn’t find it. Nice sunny day. Bought an afghan (black oat biscuit with cornflakes, walnut on top.) Yum. Entered the National Archives to see the nine Treaties of Waitangi. Surrendered my bag and had a look at the documents themselves in a dimly lit vault. Original parchment Letters Patent separating New Zealand from the colony of New South Wales include.

Short walk to Parliament for a guided tour. Got to see the rubber bearing isolators in the basement to protect all three buildings against earthquake. A little windy out afterwards. Peter Jackson described Wellington in this way: "you're pretty much surrounded by water and the bay. The city itself is quite small, but the surrounding areas are very reminiscent of the hills up in northern California, like Marin County near San Francisco and the Bay Area climate and some of the architecture. Kind of a cross between that and Hawaii." Fairly accurate, save surely for the Hawaii resemblance surely?

As it got dark grabbed a ‘handle’ (pint) of Speights then met up with CouchSurfer Mark (English), a business analyst, for a self-frying steak restaurant. Missed the last funicular up to Urszula’s so had to walk and got a little lost on those hills.

TUESDAY 9 AUGUST – (CHRISTCHURCH Night)

Phoned for an early morning taxi to the InterIsland Ferry. My boat was the Kaitaki. A nice, soft trip spent inside talking to ski-holidaying Britishers and on deck. The small sounds and islets of the South Island were very pleasant. Bought a hokey pokie ice-cream while waiting for my Naked Bus to Christchurch. Should try and look for it homemade-style to really appreciate the butterscotch. Spoke to English and Chilean girls.

The driver and a local up front of the minivan chattered away for most of the six-hour trip. Posited it was mad to pay tax. They said they’d rather do work in kind for friends and have it reciprocated than give to the state. “My father once paid $100,000 in tax,” the local said. I bit my tongue. Well, obviously he’s quite comfortable then. Paradoxically said he was all for Helen Clark because she was for the people! Said he was sick to death of trades and when he went back to his Australian girlfriend he’d look for something else. Adjudged that John Key was part of the ‘club’ and was Jewish. Driver complained about paua (abalone) thiefs. The bus stopped at small town called Kekrengu for a break.

Alighted Christchurch when it was dark. Pretty Chilean girl and I looked for a backpackers. I angled that perhaps I could drive her to Queenstown (her destination) when I picked up the rental car the next day. She’d already arranged a car pool but gave me her number. Caught the bus to south-east Huntsbury where CouchSurfer Jeremy picked me up at Major Aitken Drive.

Jeremy had only just moved back into his house on the hill after earthquake damage. It had been ‘red-tagged’ twice. Lots of cracks about. No hot water in the forward part of the house. Watched TV and talked about the Canterbury region. They pick up SBS on Sky here! Every reality show here involves Australia in some way. In fact, Australia figures here much more than the reverse. That seems obvious but it must be a bit soul destroying for patriotic kiwis. They even show Andrew O’Keefe’s ‘Deal Or No Deal.’ Surely not that expensive to buy the Scandinavian or Fremantle media rights and do you own version?

WEDNESDAY 10 AUGUST – (DUNEDIN night)

Experienced a small earthquake at 6.00am or so. I was awake dozing so not sure if it was strong enough to have risen anyone. It was just a sharp yet appreciable jolt. So foggy today! Walked down the hill and grabbed some banana bread and coffee on Strickland Street, then walked into city slowly on Colombo.

Coming up to Lichfield Street I met the cyclone fencing. Liquidfaction pushing the concrete up in many places. Turned left and to Cambridge Terrace to skirt the fencing. The Avon looked nice and charming winding its way up the west part of the city. Up to Bealey Avenue (the temporary bus terminus) to wait for the bus to the airport. Bus driver kindly let me ride on a discounted fair. Making lots of conversation to strangers. Spoke for a few minutes to a pretty Asian girl, but mis-stepped when I asked if she was Thai.

Juicy Car Rentals was quite busy and took me a while to get my red Hyundai Getzya, FSC771 rego. Given discounted GPS which I only ever ended up using one or twice. Finally left at 11.45am, late to my self-imposed timetable. Turned inland at Timaru to Fairlie where I bought a coffee and snot block, speaking to Aussie couple with child. My face was starting to get a little sunburnt. Came across Lake Tekapo – very beautiful snow capped mountains on the horizon of a beautiful light blue lake. Jumped on the 83 back towards Dunedin.

My CouchSurfing Host (a student collective known as HausaufGAGA) lived in North Dunedin, the university part of town. They lived on a hill up from George Street. Dropped my bags of after speaking to Louise for a few minutes (she was off to an improv session). Grabbed infamous Lasagne Topper (crumbed and fried lasagne). Delicious and cholesterol laden. Walked down to the Octagon. Town hall and library looked very impressive lit up on the north west part of the circus. In fact, very impressive town and layout. Mini Minor parked down one street looked very at place. Wandered down to Queens Garden which if it had some little cafes rather than just dowdy warehouse-looking offices could be another attractive counter-part to the Octagon, particularly in summer. The Dunedin Railway Station was certainly spectacular but my camera’s battery was getting low and wouldn’t grab a good picture with time delay. Would have loved to have seen the Cable Trams running about two generations ago.

Not too much going on a week night. Nothing more depressing that a large and completely empty Chinese restaurant with tatty table clothes and 1970s-fonted menu. Well, maybe two of them. Across the road a ‘massage parlour’ and a closed Speight’s hotel. This street named ‘Rattray Street.’ Back to the more attractive Octagon. Grabbed a coffee and beer at pub in the Octagon. Spoke to the obliging bartender about the town. Apparently the University has a lot of clout in town and has managed to purchase and shut down all the pubs in North Dunedin. A traveling Australian old-timer who used to work with Richard Pratt and visited Raheen on more than one occasion shared my observation that New Zealand might be nicer than Australia!

Back to the Hauseaufgaga. As falling into sleep, finally noticed the Lady Gaga posters!

THURSDAY 11 AUGUST – (INVERCARGILL night)

Defrosted the car’s windows and made my way south on Highway 1 to Milton where I turned inland. Lovely old red ‘Dairy’ neon sign but declined to stop for a photo. I was booked for speeding between small towns Ettrick and Roxburgh. After doing half an hour of 60-70kms down winding highway, I was eager to lead it up. “What’s the speed limit in New Zealand, sir?” Hmm, a hundred or one hundred and twenty. No, always one hundred. I was doing 117kms. Can only be grateful he hadn’t nabbed me a few kms back I was probably doing a lot more rubber.

I stopped at Alexandra for brunch. The cold finally got to me and desisted from dining alfresco anymore. Stopped outside to take a photo of some sheep by a one-way bridge. Back to car, discovered it bogged. Kind toothless ute driver pulled me out. Stopped at Queenstown. Town bustling with activity. Very nice. New Zealand’s Aspen? Sat at a BBQ bench drinking in the lake and gathered some small water-washed stones. Parasailing going on and steam-boat steam whiffs. Turned south with the Remarkable mountains to the left of me, tailgaters to the back. On to Te Anau where I spent twenty-minutes in a laundry/ slow internet café checking up. On to Manapouri to get perhaps some better views of the beginning of the Fiordland.

Next to Invercargill to my CouchSurfing Marijke. Drove down wide Dee Street. Pretty dead. Marijke lived in Richmond to the east. There was also a Kew and Heidelberg in town but sadly didn’t get to visit. Invercargill’s ‘re-growth’ apparently due to dairy industrial boom of the noughties. People attracted to it as business with no agricultural background. What existed of New Zealand’s grain belt is now endangered and parts of the North Island are for the first time experiencing water shortages. Marijke suggested I look at a Doubtful Sound cruise instead of Milford Sound. My host prepared us some toast and chicken broth. Drove out for some dessert at Burger King. Invercargill apparently a little rough so checked out recommended Honeykeepers bar. Had a drink and went back to Richmond.

FRIDAY 12 AUGUST – (CHRISTCHURCH night)

A long day’s driving ahead, and I slept in to 10.00am or so! I said goodbye to Marijke but left cigarette on her doorstep. I had avowed to remove all evidence but failed. Drove down to the Bluff, the southernmost part of New Zealand bar Stewart Island. I participated in a tourist survey. I suggested highway signage was accurate but perhaps have more of it. Symbolic white chain into ocean to symbolize the South Island being Maui’s boat anchored to Stewart Island. Town a little drab looking. Victoria Bitter on tap at hotel.

Skipped going back to see more of Invercargill during the day and drove through Catlins. Very pretty scenes of sheep on green plains by the sea. Got fuel at Owaka – this car was churning through it. At about 3.00pm I stopped at Oamaru and strolled through the Tyne Sea-Wharf precinct. Big Steampunk locomotive monument. Got to touch some wool fleece! Stopped briefly at Timaru then in the dark onto Rakaia. Stopped at a small superette to grab a coffee and chat to the octogenarians proprietors. Bought a chux to clean down the car which was pretty clean anyway. Drove onto suburb Hornby to see if I could grab a film. I had decided to pull an all-nighter before catching my plane 6.00am tomorrow. No films going this late however. Big car accident down the road that I had to detour.

Onto Riccarton, Christchurch and another mall. Last sessions at Hoyts was over. Spent and hour or so at a RSA (RSL) bantering with the young bartendress. Parked the car close to a Bar and Grill which was pumping and thought, what the hell. Ended up befriending two Canberians and Wellingtonian students until just after midnight. Went for a walk into Hegley Park. Another lasagne topper! Again to Shell to fill up the car before returning it.

Dropped the car off at Juicy, having done some 2100kms or thereabouts. Cleaned up the car and then put keys through the after-hours hole. Walked the kilometre or so to departure terminal and checked in on Flight JQ156. Befriended Tassie couple on plain. Mum picked me up from airport.

EXPENSES ($AUD)
$ 260.00 - airfares
$ 430.00 - car hire
$ 232.00 - buses/taxi/petrol
$ 133.00 - misc (alcohol/food/tobacco/telephony/internet/admissions)

TOTAL: $872.00 (=$1055NZ)

FINAL RECONCILIATION

TOTAL SPENT:                       $18,657 AUD*       
                                                   for 316 days  = average $59 a day

Transport                                                                                    - $6300  (34%)
Accommodation                                                                        - $4470  (24%)
Misc (admission, souvenirs, net, tobacco, telephony etc)           - $3657  (20%)
Food                                                                                            -  $3530  (19%)
Alcohol                                                                                        -  $  700   (3%)


*exc. Melbourne-Heathrow airfare return $2344

14 Apr
Plane back to Australia. Had to buy second bag to stored records etc.

13 Apr
Paid a visit to the outer reaches of the Alhambra at sunrise. Bit pertured that money still hadn't come through. Had some tapas/tostas for bruch. Walked around the western part of the city up to the Torro ring. Back to the hotel for a bit of a siesta, the out to dinnner for wine and more tapas. So many icecreameries here, and a noticeable presence of northern European dreadlocks.

14 Apr
Again to the Alhambra in the morning, this time in drizzly rain. Bumbed around town again - lot of shops hereabouts! Had a few more vinhos and tapas. Will miss cheap cigarettes. Hung around at the airport for a few hours.

15 April
Arrived early morning at Stansted. Caught hot and sweaty National Express bus to Golders Green. Bus packed with French tourists. I've said it once, I'll say it again: I'm always surpised at how French is still considered the most romantic toungue - particularly against the superb charm of other latin variants. A lot of 's'-ing sibilence in the language, why is there so much umming and ahring. Admittedly, I find it insanely difficult to pack so much intonation packed into one syllable (quatre may be the number 4, but to say it in quick succession one is forced just to say 'kat'). A plethora of too many similar sounding words. Caught bus to Wembley, then on to Harrow, befriended by Sri Lankan who praise the lovely village atmosphere of Pinner. Lot of foxes roving around the street on 3 mile walk home.

16 April
Took a big load to the Laundromat. Rose prepared a fish pie for dinner.

17 April
Trip to the library, out with Cein, Chris, Tim, and Chloe to Camden at night. Felt guilty for souveniring a big Fosters' beer tray. Crashed Tim's.

18 April
Family BBQ out in Luton, celebrating second-cousin Dan's 7-birthday, soccer in backyard. He was stoked by his Wii game present.

19 April
Out to Shepherd's Bush with Tim to watch Man U (errr) v Everton on TV at Walkabout

Acc         -   40
Misc        -    62
Food        -   79
Transport  -   337
Alcohol     -    25

AUD $543 (ouch)

Percentage of Holiday Savings spent these weeks  -           2.71%    
Total spent                                                                        -          91.79%

7 Apr
Met Tim in the morning (I was late, sorry). Walked around in the pleasant sun looking for souvenir shops so didums could complement his substantial collection with a new addition. Caught the bus to small town called Estoi, some 11kms away. Principal reason for visit: remains of old Roman villa ruins known as ´Milreu' - a bit underwhelming, but I was content. 4th century Fish mosaics to keep me amused. Nearby Palacio indeed looked palatial but was closed for rennovations. Caught the bus to Seville, sleeping most of the way. Said goodbye to Tim just before dusk, and caught the newly opened metro to my host Jeygun's place. We walked through various zones of processions. The next few days would be packed, it being  Semana Santa (holy week signifying end of Lent and arrival of Jesus to Jerusalem?)  The human-lifted floats were pretty impressive, as were the mariachi type music played by accompanying brass bands. Participants were decked with KKK-like shrouds.

8 Apr
Met Tim to, guess what, walk around and soak up the ambience. Went into the cathedral (free unlike last years' visit), then the Alcazar which was very impressive, though no Alhambra. Met up with Jeygun for tapas (carne in salsa) and sangria - waiter with Brazilian accent confuse Jeygun with the price of the sangria. The carefree one that he is, Jeygun got us talking to some American girls while walking around the nearby Plaza de Espana. I found a guy's passport on a dusty patio and turned it in (helpfully the Plaza is now Government buildings - guy's name, fittingly, was Moron. Born in Barcelona. Walked around town for rest of the day.

9 April
Accompanied Tim back to the bull-ring, I spared myself the tour - no bulls around till  sunday. Photo taken with ladies in sunday black dress. Tried to find market, couldn't. Back to Placa de espana for some carna. Next to waterside near Golden Tour to met the American girls again. They laughed hysterically about me knowing Babysitters Club was set in their home state, but had to go home for some sleep - only in the country for 3 months, but fully down with siesta timing. Walked around town with Jeygun and his flatmate, a German couchsurfer arrived late at the night, Lara.

10 April
Lazy hour on the internet, before meeting Jeygun and Lara at the Alfonso Hotel. Had a drink with a French girl by the waterside, before a trip to the gardens around the plaza. Interesting discussion on Spanish attitudes to African immigrants (poorer that rest of Europe apparently).

11 April
Jeygun prepared yet another Nigerian dish (mashed yams and gizzards) - yum. Caught bus to Cordoba, lovely scenery from the bus. Surprisingly green and cultivated. Walked around the old walled town (La Juderia) for a glimpse of the Mesquitta. Finally found the house of Joanna, a flemish Belgan with a Polish background teaching English in Spain. Went to catch an English language film at night.

12 April
A full three hours at the Mesquita. Beautiful! Went to another procession of cofridas. Just dribbled around town again, declining to buy 'Mother Mary' thistles from gypsies. Bit worried, another temporary lack of liquidity as I waited for some funds to come through - somehow forgetting the easter holidays back home.

13 April
Caught bus to Granada, talking to middle-aged women and her daughter from Perth. Lovely day. Still snow on the Sierra Nevada mountains behind the city. Found nice single in a hotel, not hostel, for only 21 Euro. (Hostels were charing 25 for 5-room dorms). Walked through Albacin again, to the viewing patio of the Alhambra, beautiful.

Acc         -    40
Misc        -     76
Food        -     86
Transport  -     50
Alcohol     -    17

AUD $269

Percentage of Holiday Savings spent these weeks  -        1.34       %    
Total spent                                                                       -         89.08     %

31 Mar
The previous night went to dinner for some franeshina (grilled parma-like sandwich with small sausages, ham and cheese) - a Porto speciality - which translates literally as 'little french girl.' Slept in this morning, meaning I missed catching Tim at the airport. Met up a few hours later. Wandered around town, had a tour of Ramos Pinto wine lodge. I took it upon myself to prepare dinner for Pedro and Tim - salad, frozen bachalau (cod cakes), and some Italian things, and a barely passable concoction of potato, sausage and rice. Out for drinks later at a local students' watering hole - all uni students wear black.

1 April
Took a slow walk with Tim to the 'Monument to Pensinular War Heroes'. Tim and I were going to take part on a Couch-Surfing organized speed-boat tour of the Doura, but were put off after first group took too long. To dinner with one Fernando and his Colombian guest (more Francesinha) then some wine-tasting at his flat. Something today didn't agree with me, so spent later part of night vomiting my guts out. Bought piri-piri-style chicken wine cork.

2 April
A leisurely day on the other side of the Doura. Wanted to visit Cockburn winery (haha) but had to content ourselves with world-famous Grahams. Bus to Lisbon relatively painless. Met Joao in the later evening by Santa Apollonia - his lively household right in the thick of things in the Alfama.

3 April
Met Tim at Baixa tube. First walked around part of town known as Barrio Alta, had the now obligatory lanches (ham and cheese pastry) and 'karoake-con-leite' (steamed water with lemon peel rind) .Lovely sunny day which would bring me a reddish face by night fall. Caught tram to Belem for one of those infamous custard pies (yum) wandered into Jeronimos Monastery. Next to UNESCO-listed but small 16th century Tower Belem. Tram back to Alfama and rambled up to Castle San Jorge. For dinner had carne de poreu a aleutejana (potatoes, mussels and chicken and rice). Lots of drug ealers pestering. Back to Joao's with Tim to watch Brother Where Art Thou (overrated, though not without some charm). Racial mix very noticeable brown - many Angolese and Mozambique.

4 April
Train to Sintra, ominous clouds at first - stupidly decided to wear shots. Went into old palace - moorish flourishes very appealing. Next climbed up to the old Moorish Castle - very green surroundings, decided not to go in but waited for Tim instead. Lots of tourists about, Japanese tourists talking photos of things patently not Portuguese. Had a great lunch we sourced away from tourist thoroughfares. Noticed Tim takes heaps of photos (nicknamed him Quick Hands). Got to see some fado music for free. Out to Bairro Alta with Joao, Gustavo, and friends. 

5 April
Lazy morning, caught bus to Faro. Debated quitting smoking. Bus to Praia De Faro, a 3km-odd long island (but think sandbank) with white- washed buildings. Bruno's house was pumping with neighbours, another seven fellow CouchSurfers. Talked to Berlin girl Mary for most of the night. Chicken and mussells. Didn't get to bed until very late. Aussie couple Chris and Jenny (Marimbula and Ringwood respectively), they met at Oktoberfest.

6 April
Bus into town with Maria. Tim and I walked around old town wall before taking bus back to the island for a snooze on the beach (err separately). Lots of wind-surfing about. Walked along the island. Another late night. Such a big food budget this week.....

Acc         -   
Misc        -    84
Food        -   193
Transport  -   139
Alcohol     -    9

AUD $

Percentage of Holiday Savings spent these weeks  -     2.125%    
Total spent                                                                        -      87.73 %

17 Mar
Left Gabriella's house at 8.00am and wandered back towards the station. Bought some batteries. Had a peek back in the clothes store, "AbOriginal" to tsk-tsk again at the handbag with 'Abo' emblazzoned on it. Went into the Basilica - which was huge - then proceeded to walk around town and see it from various views. It looked very impressive yesterday across the plains through the train window. Sun disappeared when I wandered across the bridge into Slovakia. Spent an hour or so on the other side in Sturovo before crosssing back again. Checked out the cemetery - a whole mini section of one Szabo family! Went for another walk at night with Gabriella and the dogs.

18 Mar
Walked over to Slovakia to catch the train to Bratislava. The train was late - meaning I missed my connection to Kosice in the far east of the country. Trains here are so damn slow! They can be forgiven when they have to make detours to avoid mountain ranges, but  when a 280 km journey takes six and a half hours you start to wonder. Whiled away the time taking to travelling Pole Magda. Met at station by my Slovakian host, American-accented sometimes Baptist missionary Katka. Back home, her kind hearted maticka mother had prepared traditional dinner, the name of which I must find out.

19 Mar
Caught a bus to small town Levoca (happy to leave my itinery solely to Lonely Planet at this late stage). Went inside St James Cathedral - lovely alter, renaissance style town hall next door. Light snow. Gypsies tenements just out of town. Backtracked a little by bus to Spisske Podhradi. Most of the kapitula ecclesiastic complex was closed, but very pleasant looking. The best thing, of course, was the old ruined castle on a wedge hill arising from a plain 1km or so outside of town. It was fantastic! The light snow made it look very ghostly indeed. Lovely view behind it. Returned to Kosice late in the afternoon and went inside St Elizabeth Church which was very ornate. Then for drinks with Nigerian friend of Katka, Jossy and her friend Jana (not Wendt though)

20 Mar
Early train out of Kosice. Waylaid in Zilinca for a good three hours, bought some Staropramen and had some grohg (warm rum/whiskey?). Rest of journey to Krakow was unbelievably boring - I had jettisoned my read copy of MOBY DICK with Katka - in a carriage and at times an entire car on my own, just singing Kinks songs, sleeping, being bored generally. Errrgh. Arrived Krakow and by a comedy of errors nearly missed my next host, Malgorata, after failing to navigate Polish payphones.

21 Mar
Leisurely morning with Mal and her husband at home. Tram into centre of Krakow - to see St Mary's Church, the Florian Gate and the Cloth Hall. Very nice medieval town square - a rival for Prague's in fact. Walked around Wawel Castle, but decided no to visit any of the stately rooms (yet). Walked around Kazimierz district, enjoyed the Jewish Museum in an old synagogue. Heaps of Israeli tourists loafing about. Ejected from a reading room annex nearby by some surly Gentile Polach who came into the room puffing on a cigarette. Watched the WRESTLER with my hosts, then had bit of gut ache.

22 Mar
Caught bus to Czestochowa, the spiritual capital of Poland. Met easily by hosts Olga and Peter. Went to local restaurant for traditional  dinner - quite resembling schnitzel, potatoes, and warm sauerkraut. It was drizzling, but we walked up to the Jasna Gora Monastery. Lots of weeping, crawling pilgrims gazing up at the Black Madonna. Crutches of healed people on the walls. A nice little dinner at home with my great hosts, chugging back some of that patented Bison vodka.

23 Mar
Visited a real life Matches factory. To St Barbara's church to fill up my water bottle from the miraculous spring. Back to the monastery again. Took part in some of Olga's English lessons (on maternity leave, teaching some students at home) - think I was a surprise to her students. At night, out for drinks.


Acc         -   
Misc        -    53
Food        -    33
Transport  -   145
Alcohol     -     10

AUD $241

Percentage of Holiday Savings spent these weeks  -     1.20    %    
Total spent                                                                         -    84.44%                

10 Mar
Took the bus to a small hamlet called Kamnik. Lovely scenery. Climbed the forrested hill to the old grad - a private residence now - beautiful sunny day. Talked to some stoner/student types on the otherwise deserted hill. Their English, like most others here, was flawless. Going down the hill an old stari who spoke no English insisted upon conversing in German. His vocab was a lot richer then mine, but my accent better. Once again, he just assumed I was German. I'm really proud of the fact that everywhere I go I seem to blend in quite well, that is, I don't have the clothes/swagger/attention seeking ways of you typical gawking tourist. Went out for drinks with Katya and Monica: as ever, a great time!

11 Mar
Met my new host, Melita, at her place of work near the Dannish embassy. Met two other couchsurfers, Canadian/American couple Ben and Jen who would be sharing Melita's generous hospitality with me. Walked around town together in the afternoon

12 Mar
Katya drove me to the nice, old town of Skupa Locka, where we pottered around and visited the museum. I don't want to leave sLOVEnia! Later back to Katya's for some nice risotto and salad. Melita then drove us (at German speed) to Lake Bled and Bohinj. Ben joined me for drinks with Katya and friend Igor. Nearly got lost when we endeavoured to walk back to Melita's home and forgo the bus.
 
13 Mar
Bought rail ticket to Pecs (Hungary). After much searching, finally found headquarters of Social Democrats, the leading party in the current coalition - reminded me of any ALP back-room except with smoking allowed. I declared my loyalties and centre-left credentials and I was pleased to hear him spout the names of Rudd and even Gilliard (yum!). No baseball cap, but a T-Shirt, Beanie and Wallet! I love the modesty of the tourist brochures here - akin to Melbourne, more the vibe. Bought a T-Shirt!

14 Mar
Early morning train to Pecs. Mario from Croatias warning about gypsies. met french hosts. thorough search of train by customs. To St Peters Basilica and Mescat Templom. Out for a drink. Nice dinner, fell asleep

15 Mar
Flea market - bought old Forint note, badges and charming old book. Walked around town.

16 Mar
Train to Budapest then onto Esztergom. Slovakia just over the border. Gabriella, walk around town.

Acc         -   
Misc        -   80
Food        -  48
Transport  -  126
Alcohol     -  10

AUD $264

Percentage of Holiday Savings spent these weeks  -       1.32  %    
Total spent